A TRIP TO THE MOUNTAIN TOP
Saddle Mountain is an asymmetrical anticline of the Yakima Folds which starts south of Othello, WA and extends west across the Columbia River. During the last glacial period, the diverted Columbia River worked its way south, west of Othello through the Drumheller Channels to the mountain and then flowed west along its base to its preflood location at Sentinel Gap. Periodic Missoula Floods roared down the Drumheller Channels and crashed head on, undercutting the north side of the mountain and then diverting around both ends of it. This undercutting along with tilted basalt layers and intersedimentary beds led to multiple landslides creating the Corfu Landslide Complex. At least one of the landslides extended to the top of the ridge and created the “saddle” that gives the mountain its name. Most people don’t know that the top of the mountain is accessible by a road from the south side. From SH 24 at MP 60.1, head north. At the “T” near the top, turn right and continue to the parking area at the turnaround. Walk east a short distance and you arrive at the saddle. To the north you have a great view of the Drumheller Channels, the Corfu Landslide Complex, and the course of the diverted Columbia River which now contains the underfit Crab Creek. To the south is the Hanford Reach area. Along the ridge on the south side of the road there are several concrete foundations. From 1955 to 1962, these were armed with Ajax and Hercules missiles ready to be launched at any enemy attack on Hanford. I met a worker from Boeing on one of my visits. He takes a trip to this isolated place twice a year to spend a weekend away from the hustle and bustle, noise, and light pollution of the big city. The top of the mountain is certainly a place of solitude and provides a great bird’s eye view of this part of our flood story. I am tentatively planning a Sandhills Crane bus tour this March to include this stop. Our chapter is also in the early stages of an extended weekend event that would also include it. by Lloyd Stoess, President of IAFI-Palouse Falls Chapter
Megaflood’s Impact on Spokane Valley
Views from Palisades and High Bridge Parks Palisades Park The Palisades Conservation Area encompasses 700 acres and provides a spectacular overview of the main Missoula floodpath through the Spokane Valley, which was then occupied by glacial Lake Columbia. The Park is at the top of a basalt bench historically referred to as rimrock and characterized by large boulders of fractured basalt undermined by the megaflood which widened Spokane Valley. In the far distance, well above the flood debacle, is Mt Spokane, highest peak in the Selkirk Range. This park’s trail system consists of a mixture of converted road bed and single trackways meandering through Ponderosa pines interspersed between flowered meadows, including seasonal wetlands, scour pools and isolated outcrops of columnar basalts, typical of megaflood erosion found in the Channeled Scabland. If you stick to the upper trail on top of the bench emanating westward along Rimrock Drive, you will see spectacular wildflower blooms in the spring and little elevation gain. For the more adventurous hiker, head south along Rimrock Drive and drop down 200 feet to Indian Canyon Mystic Falls, which cut into and expose pillow basalt found below the rimrock. Highbridge Park An exceptional cliff exposure of the Missoula megaflood deposit, which once filled the Spokane Valley, can be viewed along Latah Creek near the confluence with the Spokane River. This exposure can be viewed from an extensive gravel bar within Highbridge Park that can be reached by a short hike along a dirt road trail from the parking lot near the intersection of Riverside and Clarke Avenues. You can see within this 60-foot exposure of a cross-bedded megaflood deposit, visible channeling, gravel lenses (pinching in and out of channels), scour depressions and a big boulder filled channel just below the terraced surface. A small exposure of Mt. Mazama ash dating back to 7,700 years ago occurs at the top of this terrace marking the past elevation of Latah Creek. Standing at the confluence is Mike McCollum, who provided much helpful info about the flood features. Another reason to visit this site is that archaeologists excavated and recovered anthropological evidence that this flood gravel bar was a very important fishing site and gathering place for indigenous people for at least 8,000 years. We invite all the IAFI members to join us in early June for another multi-day Annual Fieldtrip Jamboree and we will even include these two parks in our agenda. So those of you who are interested in seeing the evidence suggesting that the Spokane Valley was carved out by the Missoula megafloods might want to sign up soon, space is limited. Who knows, but maybe our region’s flood history may not be that different from those of you residing in the Channeled Scablands after all. This article is a collaboration between IAFI Cheney-Spokane board members Dr. Linda McCollum, President; Jim Fox, Vice President; and Don Chadbourne Treasurer
Geographia: An Ancient Blueprint for Mapmaking
Many of history’s major breakthroughs were made by great thinkers standing on the shoulders of other intellectual giants, and Ptolemy’s Geographia, which builds on the scientific advancements of ancient Greek scholars, is no exception. The ancient Greeks were particularly skilled at understanding the world around them. By the fifth century BCE, the famous mathematician Pythagoras understood that the Earth was round, and it wasn’t long before Eratosthenes, another Greek scholar, accurately calculated the planet’s circumference. Centuries later, the Egyptian Greek scholar Ptolemy channeled all these scientific advancements into his masterwork, a collection of maps known as Geographia. Created around the year 150 CE, the eight-volume atlas served as a blueprint for mapmaking during the time of the Roman Empire. Ptolemy detailed the process of projecting a globe-shaped object onto a two-dimensional map, and pinpointed some 8,000 locations throughout Eurasia and northern Africa. He borrowed the concept of longitude and latitude from his mapmaking contemporary Marinus of Tyre, and built on it to make his own lasting contributions to cartography. Ptolemy’s work fueled many of the maps to come during the Islamic Golden Age and Europe’s Renaissance era. Reprinted from HistoryFacts.com article
The Bretz Journals and Google Earth
If you have been following Professor Nick Zentner (CWU) on YouTube, you may know that one of the treasures he has uncovered with the help of collaborators are the Bretz journals from field research done from 1919 through 1929. After Bretz’s death in 1981, his family donated his papers to the University of Chicago Library and though they were available to the public, access was very limited. Just recently Professor Zentner was able to obtain whole-hearted permission from Bretz’s family to share them more widely. Because of this, scans have been made of the journals and PDF’s are now available on Nick’s website for viewing and downloading. In November, 2023 Nick began a new series called “Ice Age Floods A to Z.” (The videos are recorded and can be viewed on YouTube.) During session I, Nick invited viewer Glenn Cruickshank (Liberty Lake, WA) to share about how to use Google Earth to view the travels of J Harlen Bretz based on his field journals. Glenn had the idea that he could transfer Bretz journal locations to Google Earth; in doing so he has created files for each of the Bretz’s years in the Northwest! All of Glenn’s work has been linked on Nick Zentner’s website. Using Google Earth with Glenn’s files, a marker appears on the map for each location that Bretz visited during a particular year and includes a snippet of his notes. The map points are all identified by year and by journal page. Not only can you zoom into the satellite images, but you can also use the ‘Street View’ feature to see various outcrops along roads that still exist today. Google Earth is a free program and can be used on the web, or as an app you can download for a mobile phone, tablet, or your computer (PC, Mac, or Linux). It is similar to Google Maps, but with many more capabilities. If you are just getting started with it, you may want to check out one of the many beginner tutorials on YouTube. Glenn has included step by step instructions on how to load the Bretz Files into Google Earth from Nick’s site. Using the journals and Glenn’s Google Earth files, you can follow along with Bretz’s field travels year by year.
Ice Age Floods A to Z Series
Ice Age Floods A to Z by Nick Zentner Our good friend Professor Nick Zentner (Central Washington University) recently started a new series on his YouTube channel called ICE AGE FLOODS A-Z. It is being live-streamed Thursday at 12:00 pm and every Sunday at 9:00 am Pacific Time. The series is also being recorded so that it can be watched anytime. Sessions A-H (streamed and recorded in November and December) have set the stage leading up to the time of J Harlen Bretz, covering Bretz’s predecessors and mentors (Israel C. Russell, Bailey Willis) and some of Bretz’s journey from starting out as a biology major and later becoming a geologist, and the chance meeting that propelled him to come to the Northwest. Special guests have included Jerome Lesemann, Skye Cooley, Joel Gombiner, and Glenn Cruickshank.
Journey Through Time: Explore Drumheller Channels
Nestled in the heart of Washington state, the Drumheller Channels offer a unique glimpse into earth’s history, carved by the immense power of Ice Age Floods. This National Natural Landmark is a must-visit for anyone seeking breathtaking landscapes, remarkable geological formations, and a chance to understand the power of nature. Witness the Scars of Ancient Floods: Drumheller Channels are a remarkable example of the Channeled Scablands, a vast landscape sculpted by cataclysmic floods that roared across the region millennia ago. Hike or bike through dry riverbeds, past towering basalt cliffs, and over rolling hills, all remnants of these powerful events. Imagining the colossal force of water that once flowed through these channels is an awe-inspiring experience. Explore Diverse Landscapes: The Channels offer a variety of landscapes, each offering its own unique charm. Hike along the McManamon Trail for panoramic vistas of the Scablands, or venture into the Crab Creek Unit to discover hidden waterfalls and basalt columns. For a unique perspective, climb to the top of “Nick’s Columns” and marvel at the vastness of the Channeled Scablands. A Haven for Wildlife: The diverse ecosystem within the Drumheller Channels provides a sanctuary for various wildlife species. Birdwatchers can spot over 23 species of ducks and geese, while sharp-eyed visitors may catch a glimpse of deer, coyotes, and even bald eagles. The Channels are also a vital nesting ground for many birds, making it a crucial habitat for preserving regional biodiversity. Connect with the Past: Explore the fascinating human history of the Drumheller Channels. The region has been inhabited for thousands of years, with evidence of Native American presence found throughout the area. Learn about the early settlers who braved the rugged landscape and contributed to the development of the region. A Place for Recreation and Reflection: Whether you’re an avid hiker, a passionate photographer, or simply seeking a peaceful escape, Drumheller Channels has something for everyone. Hike through scenic trails, enjoy a picnic amidst the breathtaking scenery, or simply relax and soak in the tranquility of nature. Plan Your Visit: The Drumheller Channels are open year-round and offer free access. Several trailheads provide easy access to various sections of the Channels. The Ice Age Floods Institute offers valuable resources, including maps, trail descriptions, and educational information. Be sure to pack sturdy shoes, appropriate clothing for the weather, and plenty of water for your adventure. Come experience the grandeur and wonder of the Drumheller Channels. Witness the power of nature etched into the landscape, explore the diverse ecosystem, and connect with the rich history of this remarkable place. It’s a journey through time that will leave you with a lasting sense of awe and appreciation for the natural world.
Lyle Cherry Orchard Interpretive Panels Installed
Last week, Friends of the Columbia Gorge completed installation on their first-ever interpretive trail signs at the Lyle Cherry Orchard Preserve! They’ll be sharing MUCH more on this story in spring 2024 (including guided outings!), but if you’re intrepid enough to hike this trail during the winter, check out the brand new signage with QR-code links to learn more about the preserve and the Gorge. Stay tuned for more in the coming months. And check out the Ice Age Floods geology recording.
Don Chadbourne: IAFI Board Member
Don Chadbourne: IAFI Board Member I have degrees in geology from the University of Wisconsin and civil engineering from the University of Wyoming. I worked as a well site geologist on oil drilling rigs throughout the Rocky Mountain region and then as a civil engineer for the Washington State DOT. The last job brought me to Spokane. My first IAFI Field Trip was in 2010 with Gene Kiver and Bruce Bjornstad on the Cheney-Palouse scabland. Subsequent field trips and hikes throughout the region, with Mike and Linda McCollum, Michael Hamilton and others, taught me a lot about the geology of the area and the Ice Age Floods. I have been a board member with the Cheney-Spokane Chapter since 2019 and am now the Chapter treasurer. I lead hikes on some of the local trails, describing the geologic features and sharing the flood story.
An Old Timer (Jeff Silkwood) IAFI Story
In the early days, the IAFI and National Geologic Trail were mainly good intentions and lacking in ways to communicate how enormous and special this landscape was. Jim Shelden, then Regional Geologist for Region One of the US Forest Service in Montana and now president of the Missoula chapter of IAFI, realized a good map was necessary to galvanize action on the project and legitimize the new group Jim Shelden had just hired Jeff Silkwood in an open-ended position as a Stay in School Cartographer and Database person in 1995. Jeff had just returned from military service and was enrolled in classes at U Montana. Jeff was assigned to digitizing maps of the Beartooth Mountains and other mapping projects in the states of the Northern Rockies. But he was particularly interested in Glacial Lake Missoula and the Ice Age Floods. And he knew he had the computer skills to use existing data to put a map together. As the maps grew larger, more complex and included features like hill shaded relief and multi 1-degree by 1-degree tiles fitted together that no one else could do, it slowly dawned on Jim that this guy was really something. The only limitations were equipment – no Dept of Ag computer could handle it nor could any plotter manage the print task. In those early days this involved overcoming computer limitations on the size of files. Combining digital elevation models for multiple tiles and maps resulted in gigantic files for the times and processor’s abilities. Jeff wrote 2500 lines of code linking multiple computers, writing new code to handle the plotter problems to complete this project over about a two year time span, working on this while completing other jobs which had more firm deadlines. The basic data came from the USGS digital version of topographic maps supplemented with data from NASA satellite images. Google was working with some of the same data for use in its own maps, and there was some back and forth communication with them on how to solve similar mapping problems. Mapping issues that came up for this project included drawing a boundary for the west coast at a time when the ocean level was much lower – which had to be done by hand. And decisions about the extent of the lake and the extent of the continental ice sheet and glaciers – maximum levels and multiple contributors as to extent were used. Initial drafts were printed on a pen plotter, then the imagery was upgraded to an ink jet printer, which was subject to fading. The final map with photo images was turned into print plates by the Forest Service special Publications group in Washington. Approval for even printing the map was complicated. – it was (and still is) the only map ever printed by USFS which was more than a travel map and identified by author. An initial printing of 2000 copies was authorized – and sold out in 3 days. Another printing of 2500 was done. The USGS ordered a third printing they sold from their Denver and Spokane Libraries. It is no longer available, supplanted by on-line maps, and subsequent versions with different detail (such as highways) done by Eastern Washington University and others. A few copies of the original map still exist, and Jeff is still working on cartography for a private firm in Missoula. The importance of the original map to give IAFI credibility and as a tool to tell the story and sell the need for a special designation has never been officially recognized…until now. Thank you Jeff for your personal commitment to this project, and thank you Jim for your support in making it happen.
IAFI Store Prices Increase for Non-Members in January
Non-members of IAFI have been increasingly taking advantage of our trust-based Free Shipping for Members. So we’ll be increasing the IAFI Store prices by 10% for non-members beginning in January 2024, but Members will continue to get Free Shipping and a 10% discount off their Cart total. Rather than impose a Member Login requirement we’ll be sending out a coupon code that members can use for their 10% Off and Free Shipping. We’ll see how this works out and make adjustments as needed to keep Store prices low for our Members.